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	<title>Chocolate News &#187; Chocolate Happenings</title>
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	<description>Exploring the world of artisan chocolate</description>
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		<title>Salted Caramel Class at The Meadow</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2011/10/08/salted-caramel-class-at-the-meadow/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2011/10/08/salted-caramel-class-at-the-meadow/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Oct 2011 03:15:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.chocolatenews.org/?p=223</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Once again the salted caramel class with Xocolatl de David was a great hit.  Chocolatier David Briggs brought samples bourbon caramel as well, and bite-sized snacks of his famous Bourbon Raleigh Bar. We tasted unsalted caramel, &#8220;half&#8221; salted caramel, and fullly (to Dave&#8217;s taste) salted caramel before setting attendees free to salt on their own. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-234" href="http://www.chocolatenews.org/2011/10/08/salted-caramel-class-at-the-meadow/xocolatl-de-david-salted-caramels/"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-234" title="xocolatl-de-david-salted-caramels" src="http://www.chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/xocolatl-de-david-salted-caramels.jpg" alt="" width="422" height="422" /></a>Once again the salted caramel class with <a title="Raleigh Bars and salted caramels online " href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=13">Xocolatl de David</a> was a great hit.  Chocolatier David Briggs brought samples bourbon caramel as well, and bite-sized snacks of his famous <a title="xocolatl de david raleigh bars" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=2_127&amp;products_id=1341">Bourbon Raleigh Bar.</a> We tasted unsalted caramel, &#8220;half&#8221; salted caramel, and fullly (to Dave&#8217;s taste) salted caramel before setting attendees free to salt on their own.  We tasted <a title="philippine sea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=23&amp;products_id=349">Pangasinan Star </a>fleur de sel, <a title="salted caramels favorite" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/Gourmet-Sea-Salt/Browse-All-Salts/Bali-Taksu-Salt?cPath=1_126">Bali Rama Pyramid Balinese</a> sea salt, <a title="moshio kelp salt algea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_28_104&amp;products_id=322">Amabito no Moshio</a> savory Japanese salt, <a title="oak smokes flake sea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=335">Halen Mon Gold </a>oak smoked salt, and even a nibble of our popular new <a title="bhut joklia ghost pepper fleur de sel sea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=1364">Fleur de Hell.</a> And yes, then we made a few batches of delicious burnt caramel and drizzled it over chocolate ice cream.</p>
<p>Photograph at left courtesy of David Briggs. Yum.  Looking forward to the <a title="salted caramel class in Portland" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=69_132&amp;products_id=1390">next class </a>in the Portland shop, <a title="salted caramel class in Portland" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=69_132&amp;products_id=1390">Friday, October 14!</a></p>
<p>Below is a re-posting of David&#8217;s recipe originally posted here in 2008.</p>
<p>+</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-224" href="http://www.chocolatenews.org/2011/10/08/salted-caramel-class-at-the-meadow/briggs-caramel-class-markbitterman079/"><img class="size-full wp-image-224 alignleft" title="briggs-caramel-class-markbitterman079" src="http://www.chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/briggs-caramel-class-markbitterman079.jpg" alt="" width="349" height="450" /></a><strong>Xocolatl de David&#8217;s Semi-Secret Recipe for the Best Salted Caramel Sauce</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong>The first step is to make invert sugar to prevent the sugar in the caramel from spontaneously crystallizing.</p>
<p>Salted Caramel Invert Sugar<br />
3 C          Sugar<br />
1.5 C       Water<br />
1/4 t        Citic acid OR juice of 1/2 lemon<br />
Put ingredients in a non reactive pot and bring to a boil.  Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes.</p>
<p>Caramel Sauce<br />
2 C  Sugar<br />
1 oz  Invert Sugar<br />
1.25 C   Cream, warm<br />
1 oz   Butter<br />
<a title="large selection of fleur de sel sea salts" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;cPath=1_84&amp;sort=20a&amp;max_display=20" target="_blank">Fleur de sel</a></p>
<p>Put invert sugar and sugar in a wide high sided non reactive pot on high heat.  Every minute or so slowly mix in granulated sugar with some that is liquefied.  Eventually you will have a paste.  Warm Cream separately.<br />
Continue to cook sugar until it begins to caramelize.  Using a candy thermometer monitor the temperature of the cooking sugar.  The classic caramel stage is around 330-350 degrees F.  You can cook it longer for a less sweet more bitter sauce.  Do not go above 390 F.</p>
<p>When your desired temperature is reached turn off the heat and slowly and very carefully add the warmed cream in small increments.  When the cream is fully incorporated, turn the heat on high and heat the caramel to 230 F.  This will go quite quickly.  Turn off heat and add the butter.  Stir until the butter has completely melted.  Add your desired amount of Fleur de sel or other sea salt.  Let cool.</p>
<p>It will store in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.</p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden;">http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=23&amp;products_id=349</div>
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		<title>The Ultimate Salted Caramel Recipe</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2010/05/12/the-ultimate-salted-caramel-recipe/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2010/05/12/the-ultimate-salted-caramel-recipe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 May 2010 11:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2008/07/30/the-ultimate-salted-caramel-recipe/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last night was the second of two salted caramel classes with David Briggs of Xocolatl de David.  We tasted Flor de sal de Manzanillo fleur de sel, Bali Rama Pyramid Balinese sea salt, Rosemary Flake sea salt, and Iburi Jio Cherry smoked Japanese sea salt.  Fantastic, and fun.  At the previous class we tried a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last night was the second of two salted caramel classes with David Briggs of Xocolatl de David.  We tasted Flor de sal de Manzanillo fleur de sel, Bali Rama Pyramid Balinese sea salt, Rosemary Flake sea salt, and Iburi Jio Cherry smoked Japanese sea salt.  Fantastic, and fun.  At the previous class we tried a similar format, but tasted Pangasinan Star Philippine fleur de sel and Grigio di Cervia Italian sel gris, as well as the wild and unexplored crunchy wierdness that is Takesumi Bamboo, one of my favorite new salts.  Below is a re-posting of David&#8217;s recipe originally posted here in 2008.</p>
<p>+</p>
<p>For the last month or so we have offered a <a title="Salt and Chocolate Classes and Events at The Meadow" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&amp;id=6" target="_blank">class</a> on the making of salted caramels at The Meadow.  Our friend and master confectioner David Briggs of at <a title="Salted Caramels and Bacon Chocolate by Xocolatl de David Briggs" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=13" target="_blank">Xocolatl de David</a> led us through the various stages of caramelization and saltiness.</p>
<p>Below is the Ultimate Salted Caramel Recipe as perfected by David Briggs of Xocolatl de David.</p>
<p>The format of the salted caramel class was the usual: Attendees (we had over 32 last night!) were given a glass of wine to help keep their palates lively as we moved through a somewhat rigorous tasting format.</p>
<ul>
<li>Mark Bitterman gave the selmelier’s mini-lecture on the four types of sea salt currently used in the assorted salted caramels offered in the shop.</li>
<li><a title="Halen Mon Gold Welsh smoked flake sea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=335" target="_blank">Halen Mon Gold</a> oak smoked sea salt from Wales &#8211; oaky and warm and mellow with hefty filo dough like flakes</li>
<li><a title="Japanese cherry wood smoked deep sea salt" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=336" target="_blank">Iburi Jio Cherry</a> cherrywood smoked deep sea salt form Japan – heady and bacony and silky at the same time</li>
<li><a title="Amabito no Moshio japanese seaweed algae salt " href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=322" target="_blank">Amabito no Moshio</a> seaweed salt from Japan – a round and mild mineral-rich salt with lots of savory brothy (umami) flavors.</li>
<li><a title="philippine sea salt fleur de sel" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_126&amp;products_id=349" target="_blank">Pangasinan Star</a> fleur de sel from the Philippines – brambly and warm and delicately sweet with outsized yet delicate white crystals.</li>
<li>The David Briggs talked about how he formulates the salt-levels of his caramels as people tasted:</li>
<li>Unsalted burnt caramel cubes</li>
<li>Lightly salted caramel cubes (the light is Briggs’s term, as the man loves salt)</li>
<li>Fully salted caramel cubes (whoa Bessy!)</li>
<li>Then Dave demonstrated how to make a salted caramel sauce (note: Dave declines to go by the title of caramelier either because he thinks a caramelier fellow in France will be offended or because he worries it might constrain future projects involving bacon or ice cream—or maybe both).</li>
<li>We took a vote and let the guests choose which salts to put in the caramels based on their tasting.  Every class has been different.  This time the choices were Halen Mon Gold and Pangasinan Star.</li>
<li>Last, Dave served up home-made chocolate ice cream and guests were allowed to ladle out the salted caramel sauce (or sauces) of choice onto the ice cream.</li>
</ul>
<p>Jittery, maybe a little buzzed, the crowd at the end of the evening was slow to drift off, doubtless uncertain as to whether dinner, bed, sea kayaking, or something else would be the best outlet for their energy.</p>
<p><strong>Recipe for the Best Salted Caramel Sauce<br />
</strong>The first step is to make invert sugar to prevent the sugar in the caramel from spontaneously crystallizing.</p>
<p>Salted Caramel Invert Sugar<br />
3 C          Sugar<br />
1.5 C       Water<br />
1/4 t        Citic acid OR juice of 1/2 lemon<br />
Put ingredients in a non reactive pot and bring to a boil.  Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes.</p>
<p>Caramel Sauce<br />
2 C  Sugar<br />
1 oz  Invert Sugar<br />
1.25 C   Cream, warm<br />
1 oz   Butter<br />
<a title="large selection of fleur de sel sea salts" href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;cPath=1_84&amp;sort=20a&amp;max_display=20" target="_blank">Fleur de sel</a></p>
<p>Put invert sugar and sugar in a wide high sided non reactive pot on high heat.  Every minute or so slowly mix in granulated sugar with some that is liquefied.  Eventually you will have a paste.  Warm Cream separately.<br />
Continue to cook sugar until it begins to caramelize.  Using a candy thermometer monitor the temperature of the cooking sugar.  The classic caramel stage is around 330-350 degrees F.  You can cook it longer for a less sweet more bitter sauce.  Do not go above 390 F.</p>
<p>When your desired temperature is reached turn off the heat and slowly and very carefully add the warmed cream in small increments.  When the cream is fully incorporated, turn the heat on high and heat the caramel to 230 F.  This will go quite quickly.  Turn off heat and add the butter.  Stir until the butter has completely melted.  Add your desired amount of Fleur de sel or other sea salt.  Let cool.</p>
<p>It will store in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.</p>
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		<title>Salt on Chocolate, Chocolate on Salt, Chocolate Fondue</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2009/11/21/salt-on-chocolate-chocolate-on-salt-chocolate-fondue/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2009/11/21/salt-on-chocolate-chocolate-on-salt-chocolate-fondue/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:05:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Musings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dark Chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chocolate fondue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dark chocolate salt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fleur de sel chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fondue and salt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salted chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salted chocolate fondue]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2009/11/21/salt-on-chocolate-chocolate-on-salt-chocolate-fondue/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fruit and chocolate go well together, as anyone who has found themselves psychologically tethered to the chocolate fondue fountain at one of those random high-right institutional mixers we all seem to find ourselves attending, unexpectedly, at least once in a while.  Chocolate fondue fountains exist but for the purpose of getting us to eat something [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/4x8x75-tablewares.jpg" title="block of himalayan salt with chocolate and strawberries"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/4x8x75-tablewares.jpg" alt="block of himalayan salt with chocolate and strawberries" width="447" align="right" height="336" /></a>Fruit and chocolate go well together, as anyone who has found themselves psychologically tethered to the chocolate fondue fountain at one of those random high-right institutional mixers we all seem to find ourselves attending, unexpectedly, at least once in a while.  Chocolate fondue fountains exist but for the purpose of getting us to eat something fresh with our chocolate.  Banana.  Strawberry.  Apple.  Fig.  Pineapple.  Dip a chunk under the curtain of chocolate cascading from the lip of a multi-tiered chocolate fountain and something inside says: “Hey mister, I’m really happy right now!  So don’t move.  Not even to fetch a glass of faux champagne.  Not even at the risk looking like a pig in front of ravishing women in diaphanous and clingy evening wear.  Don’t move.  Just eat.  Try the papaya.”</p>
<p>Sadly, some people don’t listen to their little voices, so setting up camp at the chocolate fondue area of the party makes for only the most fleeting of intercourse with others.  While that may have its advantages, I can’t shake the feeling that there is something failed in a chocolate fountain that doesn’t break down every semblance of the social façades that propel us through parties on unending undulations of stiflingly pedestrian conversation and gushy niceness.</p>
<p>What makes fruit taste better?  Salt.  What makes chocolate taste better?  Salt.  What makes fruit and chocolate taste better another?  What makes chocolate fondue something you might actually eat on a regular basis?  Stumped?  A <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_27&amp;products_id=319" title="Pink Himalayan Salt Block for cooking and serving" target="_blank">Himalayan Salt Block.</a></p>
<p>First: My favorite salts for chocolate these days, or at least some of the artisan sea salts I’ve found myself returning to again and again when dabbling in salted chocolate are:<br />
<a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=333" title="sel gris french celtic sea salt on chocolate" target="_blank">Grigio di Cervia Italian sel gris</a><br />
<a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=334" title="flake salt on chocolate fondue" target="_blank">Iburi Jio cherrywood smoked </a><br />
<a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=349" title="ilocano pangasinan star fleur de sel on chocolate fondue" target="_blank">Pangasinan Star fleur de sel</a><br />
<a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=335" title="smoked salt on dark chocolate" target="_blank">Halen Mon Gold oak smoked flake salt</a></p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/2009/11/21/salt-on-chocolate-chocolate-on-salt-chocolate-fondue/chocolate-on-salt-block/" rel="attachment wp-att-69" title="Chocolate on salt block"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/chocolate-on-salt-2.jpg" alt="Chocolate on salt block" width="293" align="left" height="196" /></a>Many, many salts work well with chocolate. Far fewer chocolates work well with salt.  I’ve tasted hundreds, and most leave me with a freaked-out feeling, which in itself isn’t so bad, but could be improved.  The beautiful, super-silky <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=752" target="_blank">Cru Sauvage</a> wild harvested salt from Bolivia, is just awful with salt.  Most of the more well-known all around crowd pleasers are good, but not perfect, perhaps because they are all about delicacy.  <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=34" target="_blank">Michel Cluizel</a>, for example… Not good.   The bigger chocolates take the salt much better.  <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=42" title="great chocolate with salt" target="_blank">Venchi </a>is superb.  <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=50" title="best dark chocolate with salt" target="_blank">Claudio Corallo</a>, magnificent.</p>
<p>Here’s bewilderingly delicious way to bring salt together with fruit and chocolate with ease, grace, and visual pizzazz.  First, warm a <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_27&amp;products_id=317" title="Himalayan pink salt slab brick cube plate block" target="_blank">plate </a>or <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_27&amp;products_id=320" title="Pink Himalayan Rock Salt Block tile platter brick block for cooking and serving" target="_blank">brick</a> of either tableware grade or cookware grade Pink Himalayan salt on the stove at low heat for about 3 minutes (go for 110, which is basically just a touch warm to the touch.  This is warm enough to melt the chocolate and also gentle enough on the salt block to permit use of less expensive Tableware Grade salt blocks).  Set the salt block on a trivet or plate.  Arrange chocolate bars on a slab of Pink Himalayan Salt.  Slice some fruit (any of the ones mentioned above will work) and arrange on the salt block alongside.  (You can also serve a platter of fruit alongside, and then just transfer a few piece at a time to the salt block.)  Serve with a dish of excellent finishing salt. Dip fruit in chocolate, or scoop chocolate onto fruit.  Eat some straight up.  Sprinkle some with salt and then eat.</p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/2009/11/21/salt-on-chocolate-chocolate-on-salt-chocolate-fondue/chocolate-on-salt-block/" rel="attachment wp-att-69" title="Chocolate on salt block"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/salted-chocolate.jpg" alt="salted chocolate" width="286" align="right" height="273" /></a>The thrill of serving fruit and chocolate on a block of salt and then sprinkling with some salt at your discretion is that the salt come into the field of play from two different directions and in two vastly different forms.  On the salt block, the luscious liquid heart of the fruit picks up a touch of salt, bringing out the sweetness, accentuating fugitive fruit notes, but interacting only in briny simplicity with your tongue because all the salt on the fruit is dissolved.  Because the chocolate is mainly fat, and salt is not fat soluble, the salt block bring zero salt to the chocolate.So, take a bite.  The salted fruit liquid is doing the salting for the chocolate.  Then drop a flake of salt on top of the chocolate and munch with a bite of the fruit.  Now you get brilliant sparkle of salt dancing off the chocolate, commingling with its dark richness, penetrating through all the way to the fruit.  The variations of salt and fruit and chocolate are geometric, crystal salt, liquid salt, salted fruit, salted chocolate, chocolated fruit and salt, fruited chocolate and salt, etc.  Summed up as: yum.</p>
<p>To clean up, rinse the pink Himalayan salt block under warm water, pat dry with a paper towel, and you’re done.</p>
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		<title>Chocolate and Salt Class with Michael Recchiuti and Mark Bitterman</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2009/06/01/chocolate-and-salt-class-with-michael-recchiuti-and-mark-bitterman/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2009/06/01/chocolate-and-salt-class-with-michael-recchiuti-and-mark-bitterman/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jun 2009 20:41:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2009/06/01/chocolate-and-salt-class-with-michael-recchiuti-and-mark-bitterman/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Doing an event with Michael Recchiuti is a little like surfing on the back of a dolphin.  Constant movement, sort of an ongoing momentum toward an unknown something or other, and a near constant rush.  Though “dolphin” isn’t very Recchiuti like.  There is nothing particularly aquatic about him.  But I want to hold on to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-pallette.jpg" title="Rosemary pistaccio bamboo salt pallette"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-pallette.jpg" alt="Rosemary pistaccio bamboo salt pallette" align="right" width="451" height="340" /></a>Doing an event with <a href="http://www.recchiuti.com/index.html" title="Michael Recchiuti confections chcolate, fleur de sel salted caramels, more" target="_blank">Michael Recchiuti </a>is a little like surfing on the back of a dolphin.  Constant movement, sort of an ongoing momentum toward an unknown something or other, and a near constant rush.  Though “dolphin” isn’t very Recchiuti like.  There is nothing particularly aquatic about him.  But I want to hold on to the surfing metaphor.  Maybe surfing on the back of a beaver.  A marmot?</p>
<p>I was there to talk salt for a chocolate and salt class for 30 people at Recchiuti’s factory in San Francisco.  While there, I took it upon myself to assume the role of in-house naturalist.  Below are a handful of examples of my attempt to capture, with a cell phone camera, Michael Recchiuti in action.  For my own purposes, I also tried to soak up as much information, technique, and ideas as possible.  I’m still processing the experience, but this is sort of how it went:</p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-pistacio.jpg" title="Candied pistachios"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-pistacio.jpg" alt="Candied pistachios" align="left" width="452" height="341" /></a>Me just off the plane from Portland, he just out from a marathon morning at the chocolate factory, we meet at <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/piccino-san-francisco" title="Piccino pizza in san francisco" target="_blank">Piccino</a>, share a bitter salad and a pizza with mildly junipery speck, chat and share a bite of burnt caramel ice cream (made by Recchiuti) with two beautiful women at the table next to us (who introduce themselves the moment the ice cream arrive), then race off to buy glasses for the salt and chocolate class, scheduled for the following day.</p>
<p>Returning to the factory, located in a huge industrial building in the uber hip Dogpatch district of San Francisco, I park my luggage at the door and am introduced to everyone in the “kitchen,” then everyone in the office.  The “kitchen” has mixers, temperers, coaters, conveyor belts, warm rooms, cool rooms, and giant kettles reminiscent of jet engine parts.</p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-tatin.jpg" title="Michael Recchiut caramelizing apples in butter and sugar for tarte tatin"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-tatin.jpg" alt="Michael Recchiut caramelizing apples in butter and sugar for tarte tatin" align="right" /></a>We survey the presentation area, chat over ideas about how to seat people, how to present salted caramels (there will be a flight of eight with six salts), where lights should go, where the tent went that was supposed to be here already, where homemade graham crackers can be set out alongside palettes of chocolate melting atop a Himalayan salt block, the general drift of how people will arrive, how they will dredge said graham crackers in said chocolate atop said Himalayan salt block and then find a seat.  How all their knees are going to be touching because the event is fully booked.</p>
<p>Then Michael starts disappearing.  He’s in the humidity controlled walk-in.  He’s rummaging for tubs under a worktable.  He’s grabbing something from a file.  He’s tossing a heavy cast iron pans on a counter top and pouring sugar over butter.  He is up on top of the giant walk in fridge fumbling with octopus plugs.  I intersect with him from time to time, busy either wondering what to do, brainstorming about something that will or will not happen, helping with some random task, photographing something.  We do this for two days together. Michael and his team had been working on it for a least a few days prior to my arrival as well.</p>
<p>I realize that somewhere along the line I’d started eating things.  Michael throws me a cherry bomb, I pluck a caramel-encrusted pecan from a tray, snack on a few real-mint-junior mints, dip my finger in some apricot, gouge a glop of sorbet from the spout of the ice <a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-salt.jpg" title="Sel gris on crust of tarte tatin"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-salt.jpg" alt="Sel gris on crust of tarte tatin" align="right" width="450" height="339" /></a>cream machine, gouge a glop of sorbet from the spout of the ice cream machine after some egg white has been added, sprinkle some bamboo salt or sel gris or fleur de sel or smoked salt on each of the above and try them that way. (I’m also not 100% sure that it’s okay for me to be tasting things; this is, after all, a real factory, with spoken and unspoken codes of behavior, defined economies, ongoing production streams, etc.)  But I realize that I’ve already learned something from Michael: eat what you preach, and eat it often.  Which may be simplified as: eat.</p>
<p>(This is not to say that we relied exclusively on chocolate as a fuel source for the long days leading up to the salt and chocolate event.  Recchiuti has just bought a new espresso machine, and he is eager to try it out at every opportunity.)</p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-chocolate-salt-cups.jpg" title="chocolate salt cups"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/recchiuti-chocolate-salt-cups.jpg" alt="chocolate salt cups" align="left" width="501" height="376" /></a>But by now everything was coming together, which has a soothing effect on me and an intensifying effect on Michael.  Now he is almost impossible to see.  Suddenly spun sugar appears on a tray.  Tarte tatin appears in neat squares.  Marshmallows of flash frozen lime foam glow mysteriously on the counter.  The dish washing station is piling higher and higher with bowls, spatulas, knives, molds, beakers, trays.</p>
<p>I am taking pictures, still, and helping where I can.  I rim glasses for malted milk in powderized cocoa nibs and smoked salt.  I roll chocolate swizzle sticks in flaky salt.  I eat.</p>
<p>The guests arrive, we serve cocktails, and soon, the event is under way.</p>
<p><strong>Menu:<br />
</strong><br />
<strong>Welcome Cocktail</strong><br />
Champagne Apricot Freeze made with Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, celery and radish juices, and a salted chocolate swizzle stick.</p>
<p><strong>Dip-It-Yourself Breadsticks<br />
</strong>Recchiuti’s housemade graham crackers and single origin chocolate on a Himalayan salt block.</p>
<p><strong>A Classic Opening</strong><br />
Tarte Tatin baked with Sel Gris de L’ile de Noirmoutier and finished with a suspended animation sprinkle of Okinawa Snow salt.</p>
<p><strong>“Palette” Cleanser</strong><br />
Single Origin “Ocumare” by Amano Chocolate. Topped with pistachios, rosemary foraged from Michael’s street and 3x Roasted Korean Bamboo salt.</p>
<p><strong>Frosty Beverage<br />
</strong>Chilled Chocolate Malt drink made with El Rey 41% Milk Chocolate and organic roasted barley malt from Oaktown. Finished with a rim of Iburi Jio Cherry salt.</p>
<p><strong>Intermission</strong><br />
Recchiuti factory tour.</p>
<p><strong>Salt Flight</strong><br />
A comparison of six artisan salt caramels: Pangasinan Star, Kona Deep Sea, Shinkai Deep Sea, Halen Mon Gold, Amabito no Moshio, Cyprus Silver.</p>
<p><strong>One Last Dance</strong><br />
House-churned Burnt Caramel Ice Cream (the same one that elicited the attention of the two women at the restaurant the previous day). Garnished with a drizzle of Stonehouse Olive Oil and Haleakala Ruby Salt.</p>
<p><strong>And to take home…</strong><br />
A box of salt caramels to share (or not) with friends.</p>
<p><strong>Two articles I&#8217;ve found on (or relating to) the Recchiuti Bitterman Chocolate Salt event so far:</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.foodporn.com/pescygourmet/2009/05/recchiuti-salt-and-chocolate-tasting.html" title="Food Porn dot com" target="_blank">http://www.foodporn.com/pescygourmet/2009/05/recchiuti-salt-and-chocolate-tasting.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thedinnerfiles.com/?p=1089" title="The Dinner Files, by Molly Watson" target="_blank">http://www.thedinnerfiles.com/?p=1089</a></p>
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		<title>Busy Days of Chocolate Tasting at The Meadow</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2008/12/04/busy-days-of-chocolate-tasting-at-the-meadow/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2008/12/04/busy-days-of-chocolate-tasting-at-the-meadow/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Dec 2008 15:09:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dark Chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Single Origin Chocolates]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2008/12/04/busy-days-of-chocolate-tasting-at-the-meadow/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It’s been a while since we’ve talked about chocolate, and a lot has happened. The main thing is that we have been eating (ahem, I mean tasting) a lot of chocolate bars. Our Meadow Salted Chocolates were back in stock for a short while!  But no, they are gone again, darn it.  If anyone knows [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It’s been a while since we’ve talked about chocolate, and a lot has happened.</p>
<p>The main thing is that we have been eating (ahem, I mean <em>tasting)</em> a lot of chocolate bars.</p>
<p><a href="http://chocolatenews.org/2008/12/04/busy-days-of-chocolate-tasting-at-the-meadow/sahagun-salted-caramels/" rel="attachment wp-att-58" title="Sahagun Salted Caramels"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/sahagun-salted-caramels.jpg" alt="Sahagun Salted Caramels" align="right" width="339" height="342" /></a>Our <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=48" title="Salted Dark Chocolate Fleur de Sel Chocolate" target="_blank">Meadow Salted Chocolates</a> were back in stock for a short while!  But no, they are gone again, darn it.  If anyone knows a great, secret local chocolatier who can mold and package our salted chocolate, please do tell.</p>
<p>Also made locally, we now carry <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=578" title="Sahagun Handmade Chocolates In Portland Oregon" target="_blank">Sahagun Handmade Chocolates</a>&#8216; legendary fleur de sel liquid caramels, and an expanded collection of her lovely &#8220;barks.&#8221;  There is the Palomitapapa, the Pepitapapa, the Oregon Bark.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=15" title="Michael Recchiuti confections" target="_blank">Michael Recchiuti</a> fleur de sel caramels have also landed on the shelves, along with boxes of his wild and delicious chocolates.  I confess that part of the reason does not have to do with the fact that his caramels are ridiculously, annoyingly good.  Part has to do with the fact that we just love Michael and his wife Jackie so much, we want to be feel their presence in the shop.  (I&#8217;ll post something on a Japanese fusion salt-festooned dinner we all shared at the <a href="http://www.heathmanrestaurantandbar.com/" target="_blank">Heathman</a> not long ago on <a href="http://www.saltnews.com" title="Blog on gourmet sea salt and blog on fleur de sel and rock salt blog" target="_blank">Saltnews.org</a> sometime soon!).   Local chocolatiers include Sahagun, <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=13" target="_blank">Xocolatl de David,</a> <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=51" target="_blank">DePaula Confections, </a>and Lulu’s Chocolate!<span id="more-57"></span>We have two of the best and brightest new boutique true bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturers, Rogue Chocolatier and Patric Chocolate, joining the tide (mmm, tidal chocolate) of new American chocolate makers like Askinosie, Amano, and Taza.  We will share more on them later, but for now&#8230; Suffice it to say that both are pursuing things never before achieved in chocolate. Rogue is almost bewilderingly flavorful, with the citrusy licoricey Hispaniola from the Dominican Republic and the Plumy woodsy Sambirano from Madagascar. Patric is sophisticated as can be, playing with varying cocoa butter levels (one of only two artisans who press their own cocoa butter).  Like a wolf and a duck raised in the same crib, the 67% and 70% chocolate bars are more different than they are alike, with interesting qualities.</p>
<p>And we have a bunch of great new chocolates, including about 9 new single origin chocolate bars from Coppeneur.  Not only are they incredibly fun to say aloud (Plantation Hacienda lara, Plantation Menavava, Plantation Uba Budo, Plantation Menavava, etc), they are truly wonderful chocolate bars. And for those of you who look down your nose at milk or flavored chocolate, try the Plantation Tabuna milk chocolate or the Trinidad chocolate with habanero and lavender.</p>
<p>That’s not all.  We have a bunch of new snacky chocolates from Kshocolat, new beautiful chocolate bars from Richard H. Donnelly fine chocolates.  Askinosie Milk chocolates and white chocolates are now available, and they really unusual—definitely worth a try.  We now carry Caoni Chocolate from Ecuador, and to wrap things up.  We have new drinking chocolate from Café Tasse joining the shelves with our existing collection of Marie-Belle drinking chocolate, Weisse, Kshocolat, Guittard, and others.</p>
<p>All will be up on the www.atthemeadow.com soon for online ordering.  All have been eaten and eaten some more, again and again, as we try to educate ourselves on the the positively sensational wave of great new chocolate bars entering the marketplace!  The Golden Age of Chocolate is upon us!</p>
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		<title>Xocolatl de Davíd Dinner at Park Kitchen</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2008/09/19/xocolatl-de-david-dinner-at-park-kitchen/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2008/09/19/xocolatl-de-david-dinner-at-park-kitchen/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Sep 2008 01:38:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Musings]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2008/09/19/xocolatl-de-david-dinner-at-park-kitchen/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I really have nothing against chocolate.  In its bar form, in fact, it is something I enjoy with all the savor and associations of great wine.  In it&#8217;s bar form I probably eat half a pound a day, or maybe more when the stars are in alignment. But chocolate as a theme, as a concept, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I really have nothing against chocolate.  In its bar form, in fact, it is something I enjoy with all the savor and associations of great wine.  In it&#8217;s bar form I probably eat half a pound a day, or maybe more when the stars are in alignment.</p>
<p>But chocolate as a theme, as a concept, as a pattern, a fashion, a <em>mode</em> &#8212; no.  Nay.  I do not like it.  My initial, invertebrate response when my personal friend and professional chocolate supplier David Briggs said he was making a chocolate dinner was to recoil into a dark crevice somewhere, staring through the briny depths of my eyes with octopus horror.  Sucking cold brine through my gills, my brain is reduced to its bivalve origins.  Chocolate, my dear friend, is a food.</p>
<p>But immediately after that my knowledge of Dave, who owns and operates <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&amp;manufacturers_id=13" title="Xocolatle de David for sale online and in stores" target="_blank">Xocolatl de David</a> and is also Sous Chef at <a href="http://www.parkkitchen.com/" title="Park Kitchen in Portland Oregon is a favorite at The Meadow" target="_blank">Park Kitchen</a>, returned to assure me.  Mr. Briggs&#8217;s unassuming manner cloaks a sophisticated palate, unflinching creativity, and an ever-expanding set of skills .  So why not?  A seven course chocolate-based meal paired with seven beverages, served at Park Kitchen, one of Jennifer and my favorite restaurants in town, and a place we freely recommend to out of town visitors and locals alike who visit <a href="http://atthemeadow.com" title="Salt Chocolate Wine Flowers and Himalayan Salt Block cooking Classes and Events and food and fun at The Meadow" target="_blank">The Meadow.</a></p>
<p>If Jennifer had qualms she didn&#8217;t express them; she just grabbed my hand and dragged me to Park Kitchen where 14 people (two cowardly louts failed to honor their reservation) were seated with the preliminary awkwardness that inevitably attends such public-private group encounters.<span id="more-54"></span></p>
<p>&#8220;Aren&#8217;t we all suppose to be friends now?&#8221; I probably wondered, aloud, trying to hide my own agoraphobia.  &#8220;Can&#8217;t we all just sort of snuggle?&#8221;</p>
<p>Eventually (at my request) the empty chairs of the two no-shows were removed and I managed to coax two of the several attendees at the far end of the table (<a href="http://www.wci.edu/" title="Western Culinary Institute le Cordon Blue in Portland Oregon" target="_blank">Western Culinary Institute</a> students whom I soon came to adore after one of them plunked down $100 bucks cash to go Dutch on a chicken-infused mescal) to move in closer.  We soon had more of a hive of hushed buzzing buzz of expectation going.</p>
<p>My only complaint of the entire evening had nothing to do with Dave, and happened right at the start.  Strangely, the cocktail waitress asked Jen and I if we wanted a drink (which prompted the involuntary response of &#8220;YES&#8221;) from both of us.  Then, strangely, she brought the cocktails, and then, within 15 seconds (because I do drink fast enough that any later and I wouldn&#8217;t have noticed) she served champagne intended as a pairing for the <em>amuse bouche </em>that was about to come out.  There I am, listening to the sommelier&#8217;s explanation of a Jose Michele Pinot Meunier Champagne, fist still gripped around a very pickly and aromatic martini, and wondering how I am supposed to taste either.</p>
<p>Out of deference to the flow of the evening, my beautiful martini was left to grow gradually warmer, eventually exiting the table at the end of the evening as an undistinguished swill of grain alcohol and oil and brine and herbs.  Poor thing.  Jennifer was in the same predicament of <em>cocktail-interruptus </em>as I, the experience for which we paid something on the order of 24 dollars!</p>
<p>The Champagne was a distinctly forgettable Jose Michele Pinot Meunier Champagne, but on the heals of it service came Dave&#8217;s first creation&#8211;ingeniously conceived and masterfully executed: a smoked cocoa butter and olive oil emulsion on toast.  What the hell?</p>
<p>That, topped with a few flecks of <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_89&amp;products_id=336" title="Iburi Jio Cherry, a sense an aromatic moist sea salt with a bacon-like aroma." target="_blank">Iburi Jio Cherry</a> cherrywood roasted deep sea salt from Japan.  What the hell?</p>
<p>It looked like a slightly scary pat of butter; sort of a redolent beige reminiscent of some of the truly evil cheeses of southern England or the Alpine regions of France.  Upon touching the lips, the thing melted into nothingness, bypassed the mouth&#8217;s organs of taste altogether and rocketed straight to the olfactory nether regions where it did unfamiliar and delightful things to the brain.</p>
<p>Next up was a HUB lager chelada, a sophisticated version of what I always knew as a Michelada &#8212; effectively a bloody mary with beer substituting in for vodka, and maybe some habenero peppers tossed in for good measure.</p>
<p>Dave then served corn milk ganache fritter with piperade.  The corn was sweet, so he used 100% dark chocolate, for a crunchy beignet-like thing with the rich, corny, sweet pleasantly gooey inside.  Very un-chocolately and yet very chocolately at the same time: an achievement in it&#8217;s own right.</p>
<p>Next up came a &#8220;chocolate panzanella&#8221; that was just that.  But this was possibly the most beautiful panzanella imaginable, chocolate or otherwise.  Crusty chocolate brioche, multicolored cherry tomato halves, string beans (haricot verts?), and certainly among the finest fresh-marinated anchovies I&#8217;ve eaten outside of Italy; all of which was drizzled with a harisa-like dressing of tomato reduction and cocoa.  Citrusy (from the anchovies and tomatoes), teetering toward hearty, and at the same time garden fresh-tasting, served with an acceptable La Bota de Manzanilla Sherry.</p>
<p>Then came the pork belly confited in non-deodorized cocoa butter, which retains its characteristic earthy, musty, woodsy smells.   It was served with chanterelles and white beans and was just totally over the top in the way of classical French magic acts, suspending richness, subtlety, and body in midair and gliding hoops over it: see, no strings attached.   (Granted Dave says he was inspired by a recent trip to Spain.)  The dish was served with a 2006 Chateau de Segries Lirac, which had all the friskiness of a late-model Oldsmobile sedan with no <a href="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/chichicapa-mezcal.jpg" title="mezcal of the gods"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/chichicapa-mezcal.jpg" alt="mezcal of the gods" align="right" width="122" height="233" /></a>gasoline.  The pork belly was so compelling that I hardly noticed.</p>
<p>Next up came what, if I must name a star of the show (and why not), fit the bill.  Chilled chocolate consommé and a dollop of crème fraîche-like goat cheese, sprinkled with crunchy green nutty pepitas.  Again, so delicate, so nice, so jam packed with je ne sais quoi I really don&#8217;t think I&#8217;ll even bother.  It was bliss.  Everybody freaked out.  And then to top it off, the sommelier hit one out of the park, pairing the dish with a <a href="http://www.mezcal.com/" title="The best mezcal ever?  The most highland scotch like mezcal I've ever experienced" target="_blank">Del Maguey Chichicapa Mezcal</a> that just&#8230;  destroyed.</p>
<p>&#8220;Chichicapa is 2 hours south of Oaxaca, and 2 hours to the west on a dirt road. The pueblo elevation is about 7,000 feet. Chichicapa is separated from the valley of Oaxaca by a mountain range. The valley is broad, about thirty miles deep and ten miles wide. The climate is desert and tropical, with banana trees, guava, mangoes and other exotic fruits. Faustino Garcia Vasquez is the maker of Chichicapa. He is a humble and talented craftsmen with great respect for the ancient processes.&#8221;</p>
<p>Faustino is a god, or perhaps, rather, a fallen angel.  Faustino probably parades around Chichicapa in a kilt, speaks Spanish with a thick brogue, lullabies his bambinos to bed with the bagpipes, and eats haggis, neeps, and tatties for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  I am a passionate lover of mezcal and tequila, but my passions are alloyed with an irrepressible manly need for dalliance with single malt scotch whiskey &#8212; particularly of the highland variety.  If Faustino bartered his soul to the devil in exchange for the powers to concoct mezcal, he most assuredly came away with the bargain.</p>
<p>The mezcal, for all its fulminations and flourishes, just purred like a kittycat on the lap of the ineffably yummy chocolate consommé, chilly-aromatic goat cheese, and pepita bits.  Women squirmed in their seats, dissolved into the ether.  Men fashioned spears from chair legs and went out spearfishing for barracuda.</p>
<p>Next to last was a trio of mostly single origin chocolate ice creams: a Claudio Corallo 75%, something or another from Madagascar (Valrhona?), and a milk chocolate that I cannot recollect.  Each was served with a few crystals of a different sort of finishing salt.  The ice cream was served with a &#8220;chocolate soda&#8221; that was crisp and refreshing and &#8220;more or less&#8221; non-alcoholic.</p>
<p>Last came chocolate milk and a nougaty-nutty cookie, which was starting to be more food than I needed, but which I obligingly wolfed down.</p>
<p>And I forgot to mention that maybe every dish was sparked to its fullest expression with a few grains of strategically selected finishing salt.  Be still my heart &#8212; there was the regal <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_84&amp;products_id=349" title="Pangasinan star is finest fleur de sel anywhere, fron the Philippine islands" target="_blank">Pangasinan Star,</a> there was glowering <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_89&amp;products_id=335" title="Chocolate and halen mon gold Welsh sea salt" target="_blank">Halen Mon Gold, </a>there was the trusty <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1_84&amp;products_id=332" title="the classic fleur de sel from France" target="_blank">Fleur de sel de l&#8217;Ile de Noirmoutier. </a></p>
<p>Dave, enough already.  Open your own restaurant.</p>
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		<title>Dinner with Michael Recchiuti</title>
		<link>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2007/10/14/dinner-with-michael-recchiuti/</link>
		<comments>http://www.chocolatenews.org/2007/10/14/dinner-with-michael-recchiuti/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Oct 2007 15:12:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mark Bitterman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chocolate Happenings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Single Origin Chocolates]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chocolate dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[guittard chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[heathman hotel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jennifer turner bitterman]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[michael recchiuti]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[philippe boulot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recchiutti]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[susan boulot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[valrhona chocolate]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chocolatenews.org/2007/10/14/dinner-with-michael-recchiuti/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Yes, Mike and I just hung out for the evening, exchanging witty observations about the trade. Tucked in a mellowly lit booth at the Heathman Hotel&#8217;s Tea Court, we sipped a vodka martini made with Okhotnichya &#8212; an old Soviet-era &#8220;hunter&#8217;s vodka&#8221; &#8212; that Mike had crafted himself from the mucilage of cacao pods and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/okhot.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Okhotnichya Vodka" align="right" />Yes, Mike and I just hung out for the evening, exchanging witty observations about the trade.  Tucked in a mellowly lit booth at the <a href="http://www.heathmanhotel.com/" target="_blank">Heathman Hotel&#8217;s Tea Court,</a> we sipped a vodka martini made with Okhotnichya &#8212; an old Soviet-era &#8220;hunter&#8217;s vodka&#8221; &#8212; that Mike had crafted himself from the mucilage of cacao pods and various findings at the <a href="http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/" target="_blank">Portland Farmer Market</a> earlier that day ,and gifted to the bar keep in a beaker hand cut from a thrift store vase.  <a href="http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=416" target="_blank">Philippe Boulot,</a> Executive Chef of the Heathman, <img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/chocgourmandise.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Chocolate Gourmandise" align="left" />plopped down in the booth beside us from time to time, soliciting our opinions of various <em>amuses gueules </em>involving foie gras, chocolate, <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/salt/gris_noirmoutier.htm" title="Fleur de sel de l'Ile de Noirmoutier, celtic sea salt">fleur de sel</a> de l&#8217;Ile de Noirmoutier, and grape must.  We were later graced by the presence of Boulot&#8217;s lovely and talented pastry chef wife Susan Boulot, bearing miniature plates of her legendary <a href="http://www.greatchefs.com/site/cities%20dessert%20chocolate%20treat%20chocolate_gourmandise.htm" target="_blank" title="Susan Boulot's Chocolate Gourmandise of Flowerless Chocolate Cake and Chocolate Sauce">Chocolate Gourmandise</a> produced from the aquatic criollo beans she harvested on a scuba expedition <a href="http://chocolatenews.org/2007/10/14/dinner-with-michael-recchiuti/flowers-of-theobroma-cacao/" rel="attachment wp-att-15" title="Flowers of Theobroma cacao"><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/theobroma_cacao.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Flowers of Theobroma cacao" align="right" /></a>to the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan beneath the azure waves of lake Texcoco.  The bouquet of flowers plucked by Florist/Sommelier/Wife <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/intro/atr/credits.htm" target="_blank" title="Jennifer Turner Bitterman, Proprietor of The Meadow">Jennifer Turner Bitterman</a> from our own, private, greenhouse-coddled cacao tree filled the room with its intoxicating aroma, attracting various non-native lepidopterous insects that glowed and chattered about our heads.</p>
<p>Actually, none of this happened.</p>
<p><span id="more-12"></span></p>
<p><img src="http://chocolatenews.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/chocolatier_recchiuti.jpg" alt="Michael Recchiuti" align="left" /><br />
We did venture to the much anticipated Chocolate Dinner with <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/chocolate/recchiuti.htm" title="Michael Recchiuti Chocolate at The Meadow">Michael Recchiuti </a>at Portland&#8217;s <a href="http://www.heathmanhotel.com/" title="Heathman Hotel Portland Oregon" target="_blank">Heathman Hotel </a>last night, a seven course banquet hall-style meal that started with a cocktail party attended by EVERYONE in Portland with a hand in chocolate.   Michael Recchiuti, demigod chocolatier of <a href="http://www.recchiuticonfections.com/" title="Recchiuti Confections chocolates website" target="_blank">Recchiuti Confections</a> (maybe without the &#8220;demi&#8221;), regaled about sixty people with a seven course symphony in chocolate inspired from his chocolate book.</p>
<p>Fortunately, Recchiuti&#8217;s chocolate dinner was attended by a gaggle of brilliant food writers, and they will surely offer a more eloquent, measured, and sober review of the event than I can.  The Heathman bar manager, Dustin Dickson, offered up a basil-infused <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/chocolate/domori.htm" title="Domori Sambirano 70% dark chocolate bar">Sambirano </a>chocolate martini (or some such Madagascar chocolate, I can&#8217;t recollect exactly, but presumably the lime-zesty <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/chocolate/valrhona.htm" title="Vahrhona Ampamakia chocolate bar">Valrhona Ampamakia 64%</a> bittersweet chocolate, or the <a href="http://www.atthemeadow.com/chocolate/eguittard.htm" title="E. Guittard Ambanja 65% chocolate bar">E. Guittard Ambanja 65%</a> bittersweet chocolate), and the tablets of Valrhona, Guittard, and Recchiuti chocolate were nice to snack on before settling into the seven course chocolate dinner ($78) paired with wine ($110).  No point in moderation.</p>
<p>Chef Philippe Boulot&#8217;s multi-course dinner was inspired by recipes from Michael Recchiuti&#8217;s opulent book, <a href="http://atthemeadow.com/books.htm#michael%20recchiuti" title="Chocolate Obsession by Michael Recchiuti">Chocolate Obsession</a>.  Chocolate Dinner Menu:</p>
<ul>
<li>Foie gras and wild mushroom cappuccino</li>
<li>Tuna au poivre with cocoa nib crust</li>
<li>Tarragon ruby grapefruit granita</li>
<li>Duck Mole</li>
<li>Burnt caramel pot de crème with milk chocolate</li>
<li>Sampler of Recchiuti Confections and pulled sugar</li>
<li>Petit fours of chocolate</li>
</ul>
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